Naked Tomato Sauce with Spaghetti

Naked Tomato Sauce
A spare, bright fresh tomato sauce for spaghetti, finished with basil-garlic infused olive oil and a small knob of butter for a silky restaurant-style finish.
This sauce is built around ripe tomatoes and restraint. Instead of layering in onion, carrot, celery, tomato paste, or a long list of herbs, the tomatoes are peeled, seeded, salted, and cooked until they collapse into a clean, vivid sauce.
The flavor comes from a separate basil and garlic oil. Warming the aromatics gently in olive oil pulls out their perfume without letting the garlic brown, then the strained oil is stirred into the tomatoes near the end so the sauce tastes fresh rather than heavy.
A potato masher gives useful control over the texture: stop early for a rustic sauce or keep mashing for a smoother coating. The reserved tomato juices and pasta water keep the sauce loose enough to cling to spaghetti without becoming watery.
Butter is optional but worth using when you want the rounder, glossier finish of a restaurant pasta. The final minute of cooking the spaghetti directly in the sauce is what pulls the dish together, so drain the pasta while it is still just shy of done.
Nutrition (per serving)
Directions
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1
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut a shallow X in the bottom of each tomato.
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2
Blanch the tomatoes for 10 to 30 seconds, just until the skins loosen. Transfer them to cold water, peel off and discard the skins, and keep the pot of water for the pasta.
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3
Halve the tomatoes lengthwise. Scoop the seeds into a fine strainer set over a bowl, press to collect the juices, then discard the seeds and reserve the juices.
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4
Put the peeled tomatoes and kosher salt in a wide saucepan large enough to hold the pasta later. Set over medium-high heat and crush the tomatoes with a potato masher as they warm.
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5
When the tomatoes start bubbling, reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer for 35 to 45 minutes, mashing occasionally, until the sauce tastes concentrated and looks spoonable; add reserved tomato juice if it gets too thick.
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6
While the sauce simmers, combine the olive oil, smashed garlic, whole basil leaves, and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan. Warm over the lowest heat until the oil barely begins to sizzle, then remove from the heat and strain the oil.
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7
About 10 minutes before the sauce is ready, salt the tomato-blanching water generously and bring it back to a boil. Cook the spaghetti until it is very al dente, reserving 1/2 cup pasta water before draining.
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8
Stir the infused oil into the tomato sauce and taste for salt. Add the drained spaghetti and 1/4 cup reserved pasta water, then simmer together for 1 to 2 minutes until the noodles are coated and tender.
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9
Loosen with more pasta water if needed. Stir in the butter, if using, until glossy, then serve immediately with thinly sliced basil.
Ingredients
- Ripe Plum Tomatoes:3 lb
- Kosher Salt:1 1/2 tsp
- Extra-Virgin Olive Oil:1/4 cup
- Garlic Cloves, Lightly Smashed:4
- Fresh Basil Leaves, Plus Thinly Sliced Basil For Serving:12
- Red Pepper Flakes:pinch
- Spaghetti:1 lb
- Unsalted Butter, Optional:2 tbsp
Tips & Notes
- Use the ripest tomatoes you can find; underripe tomatoes will make a sharper, thinner sauce.
- Do not let the garlic brown in the infused oil or it can turn bitter.
- If the sauce will be served without pasta, simmer it slightly less so it stays fresh and loose.
- For a heavier sauce-to-pasta ratio, increase the tomatoes to 4 pounds and season to taste.